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LAUNDRY · STAIN GUIDE

Stain Removal Guide

Choose the stain and the fabric to get the steps in order, plus what to avoid so you don’t set the stain or damage the fabric.

Find the steps

Narrow the list with words like coffee, foundation or pen.

Common stains

Stain basics

Where to start
Stain typeExamplesStart with
ProteinBlood, egg, milkCold water, enzyme product
OilyButter, cooking oil, makeupBlot, liquid detergent or grease pretreatment
TanninCoffee, tea, wine, fruitCold water, stain remover, fabric-safe bleach
Waxy or stickyCandle wax, gum, crayonHarden with ice, scrape off

Before you start

  • Treat stains as soon as you can; fresh stains come out more easily.
  • Read the care label, and test any product on an inside seam first.
  • Blot instead of rubbing, and work from the outside of the stain inward.
  • Never mix cleaning products, especially chlorine bleach with ammonia or acids.

For wool, silk, rayon, acetate or unknown fabrics, the guide stops at the first safe step when a stain needs bleach, ammonia or solvents, and sends you to a professional.

Frequently asked questions

Should I use hot or cold water on a stain?

Start with cold for protein stains like blood, egg and dairy, since heat can set them. Greasy stains often come out better in the warmest water the care label allows, after pretreating.

Why shouldn’t I put a stained shirt in the dryer?

Dryer heat can set many stains permanently. Air-dry the item and check that the stain is gone before using the dryer.

Can I use bleach on any stain?

No. Chlorine bleach is only for whites and fabrics whose label allows it, and it makes rust stains darker. Never use it on wool or silk, and never mix it with ammonia.

When should I go to a dry cleaner?

When the label says dry clean only, when you don’t know the fabric, or when a delicate fabric needs bleach or a solvent. Tell the cleaner what the stain is.

Sources and last updated

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